On Easy Street: Saying Goodbye to Gourmet

A few days ago, the last issue of Gourmet arrived at my door. "The last issue" meaning it's the last issue ever. In our uncertain economy, Condé Nast decided to eliminate some of its brands, especially in the cases where it owned a number of magazines with the same target audience. In the case of cooking magazines, Condé Nast decided, based on the number of subscriptions, that Gourmet was more expendable than Bon Appétit and Cookie Magazine. As a consolation, Condé Nast will send me Bon Appétit in lieu of Gourmet for the remainder of my subscription.

And then I will cancel my four-year subscription.

I understand business; I understand economics. In an age when readers favor free online content, subscriptions have plummeted. Because Gourmet wasn't making enough profit, Condé Nast chose to eliminate it for the good of the company.

But is it for the good of the culture? Gourmet isn't a cooking magazine; it's "The Magazine of Good Living." Yes, it contains recipes and tips for food preparation, but that's not the reason Gourmet has such a high resubscription rate. The magazine celebrates the tradition and culture surrounding food. The delightfully written articles and artistic photographs convey the sense that its writers and editors believe that even complicated dishes deserve to be a part of our lives—to serve an elaborate meal to loved ones is a labor of love.

On my desk are the November issues of Gourmet and Bon Appétit, side by side. The cover of Gourmet features an amber turkey on a bed of greens, its platter set on a crocheted table cloth. Behind the bird—and behind the magazine's title—are vertical wooden planks that one may find in a home in any corner of America. Bon Appétit's cover reads in orange print just above its title, "Thanksgiving Made Easy." Other headlines: "10 Perfect Menus," "Entertaining Dos and Don'ts," and "Leftovers done right!" The headlines encircle a well-seasoned turkey in a copper-plated roaster (the All-Clad label expertly PhotoShopped off the handle) resting on a stainless steel surface that fades to white.

It's easy to see why Condé Nast thought Bon Appétit to be the more successful of the two magazines, sales aside: It appeals to a larger population. Americans no longer have the patience for a laborious meal, and they often don't even appreciate the difference in quality of the fruits of that labor. Americans would rather have a "Thanksgiving Made Easy" and believe it can happen in an immaculate stainless steel kitchen than have an honest meal served on a realistic table.

American culture has lost its Americanness. Americans believe they have high standards, but too many of us have become satisfied with mediocrity. We want it now, we don't want to do it ourselves, and for those reasons, we'll take what we can get. The result: We eat a gluttonous amount of food that's passable at best.

And so the few of us who consider food a part of good living are further marginalized. As I pour over the final issue of Gourmet, I lament the death of a true American institution. I wonder how I'll manage to host my own large family dinners without Gourmet. It won't be easy.